Those who enjoy Italian food know to never underestimate the value of old-school Italian restaurants. They have long set themselves apart by satiating our collective nostalgia and jadedness with stuffy, impersonal “fine dining” restaurants while delivering time-tested Crown Jewels of Italian cuisine. Before dining here, I had only witnessed one restaurant that exemplified “old-school Italian,” John’s in the East Village, which is a serviceable benchmark for quality in this niche of Italian restaurants. Regardless of their respective ages (John’s has been in business since 1908, and Arturo’s in 1957), Arturo’s, located on the southern border of Greenwich Village, translates its vintage charm to a cozy, inviting environment for diners, and ultimately beats John’s on the ambiance factor. It combines its scruffy, vintage essence with authentic Village personality (e.g. nightly live jazz) for a casual yet refined feel. On the right of the front room is a compact bar glowing with warm, soft light, eliciting lively conservation from everyone occupying the small barstools. In the center, a well-dressed man belts out jazz tunes, accompanied by a pianist. When I went, you could also hear Frank Sinatra singing the iconic “New York, New York” in the background.
The restaurant boasts a variety of delicious appetizers, including crispy, herby, cheesy garlic bread with warm tomato sauce, and rice balls with a harmonious combination of textures: creamy risotto on the inside, and crispy golden batter on the outside, punctuated nicely by the ever-versatile tomato sauce. Their Caesar salad is light and wisely places emphasis on the romaine and Parmesan rather than the dressing. This approach pays off, as the core ingredients are fresh and flavorful, accentuated by the dressing rather than dominated by it. These appetizers were the optimal prelude for the Margherita pizza that came next. Their pizza has a wafer-thin, crispy crust that is lightly charred and slightly salted, departing from the NY-style thick crust norm, and clarifying the understated flavors of the delicately layered mozzarella, piquant basil and tomato to great success. Playing to the strengths of their coal-fired oven, their pizza was satisfying yet simple and didn’t make any claims of “New York’s best pizza”. Aligning with the humble ethos of “old-school Italian,” it was spectacular enough to warrant a second visit but it will remain under the radar, much to the appreciation of me and my family. The next time you find yourself in Greenwich Village and are craving a high-quality Italian dinner with a close-knit group of friends or family, head to Arturo’s and bask in the ambiance of this communal “living room” of the Village with an animated soundtrack of jazz and Sinatra.
Rating: 4/5
John's reviews always point me to restaurants worth visiting! Thank you!